MICHAEL LORENZ

YEARS AGO I HAPPENED to find myself in Lumi in the West Sepik district. In those days it was an isolated spot that served as a hub for even more isolated places such as Nuku and Karaitem.

Anyway, one day the local kalabus line (most of them would have been doing time for cargo cult related activities) and their attendants were going off to prepare a new spot for a garden.

I suspected that where they would be breaking ground was an old settlement site so I asked them to keep an eye out for stone implements and so on. After some discussion about why anybody would be interested in such things they assured me they would assess any stones or other artefacts they came across.

A day or so later they stopped by my place on their way home and with big smiles handed me a large polished dolerite axe with no sign of wear and tear. They were just as surprised as I was as it was not something that they were familiar with.

Years later I discovered that it bears an uncanny resemblance to the axes in a hoard discovered in Ireland of all places, Malone Road in Belfast to be more precise. So perhaps we are more connected than we presently realize.

I can't leave the subject of Lumi without relating another incident. As I was about to take my leave of the place, the folk of Lumi village itself told me that I could have whatever I wanted from them as a parting gift.

Needless to say I was bowled over by this gesture and as they waited expectedly I looked around and spied a slightly worse for wear wooden saksak bowl that was in everyday use to prepare hatwara (sago powder mixed with hot water, a glutinous paste that was the staple, and favoured, food of the region).

They protested that they had much better items than that, and were somewhat disappointed with my choice - but I insisted.

I explained it was something that had been used by them every day and so contained something of the spirit of their lives. They handed it over. I still have that bowl...