A journey through the Buin District of Bougainville
03 June 2015
An entry in the Crocodile Prize
Award for Writing on Tourism, Arts & Culture
YOU cross the east coast bridge over Bougainville’s largest river, the Laluai, leaving behind the Kieta District’s Kokoda constituency and sink into the wonders of Aga Country, as the Buin people love to call their home territory.
Alternatively you can get wet crossing the Mivo River bordering Siwai and Buin Districts in the south-west and there breathe the fecund air of Buin.
Buin is one of Bougainville’s most populous areas with rich biodiversity and splendid cultures and traditions that have been in the making through the course of time.
In traditional oral history, Buin is the origins of many clans and families that now inhabit Kieta, Siwai, Nagovis and other areas having crossed in their prehistoric endeavours from the many islands of what is now the Solomon Islands.
In Bougainville politics, Buin has its own agendas that spill across the rest of the province.
With the ongoing peace process, Buin has had notable conflicts that haunt the public conscience in Bougainville and beyond.
Yet Buin people are noted as Bougainville’s most hospitable to strangers who visit their villages.
Buin is also Bougainville’s gateway for the Solomon Islands, of which Bougainville is culturally and geographically a part.
Geographically the region is a plain divided into Wisai (Small Buin) and Big Buin by the south-east running Leuro Range.
Buin has much to offer the visitor. The Konnou constituency has stone sculptors at Muguai village and wood carvers at Wisai. These artisans have remained unsung for many years, using their talents and skills out of the love they have for where they live.
The district also hosts the pre-eminent Tuirima (Garamut in Pidgin) Festival that is gaining momentum each year. The event features singsing unique to the area and offers numerous traditional arts and crafts.
The mountainous north that includes the villages of Piano, Tokaino, Pariro and the Wisai area offers hikes along mountain trails through untouched virgin jungle. It also offers a breathtaking visit to one of Bougainville’s highest peaks, Mount Takuan.
Camping, birdwatching and sightseeing are all on offer - including looking out to the plains of Buin and beyond them to the Solomon Sea and the Solomon Islands.
Buin’s main river systems, the Mivo, Porou and Silibai together with many smaller streams, meander their way down to the sea and the surf.
Hunting for wild pigs and crocodiles offers a real treat for holiday makers who enjoy a bit of adventure. And, after every rainy season, visitors are free to partake in the peturoi fishing of the lowlands.
These lakes and pools are rich with aquatic life left behind when the flood plains and rivers subside in the dry season. Skills in traditional fishing methods are displayed by the locals who catch eels, prawns and many kinds of fish for food, feasting and trade.
Apart from all the natural scenery, Buin still retains the scars of bloody conflict in World War II. The Japanese were here in great strength and one of their war heroes, Admiral Yamamoto, had his plane shot down into the jungle of Buin.
There are many war relics to be seen by people interested in the history of the Pacific war, in which many of their relatives fought.
These are just a few of the pleasures of Bougainville’s Buin District – and there are others that travellers can create for themselves as they tour Aga Country.
In the main administrative centre, Buin Town, there are guest houses, stores, water craft, hire cars, guides and other vital services.
Buin offers the only international market for fresh produce. Every weekend buyers and sellers from around Bougainville and the Solomon Islands gather here to sell their garden and other products.
Buin is also connected to Arawa, Bougainville’s largest urban area in the Kieta District, and the neighbouring districts of Siwai and Bana.
So in Buin, a traveller is engaging with the whole of Bougainville and the Solomon Islands.
I have been travelling along that highway as a cultural officer and a young anthrolpogy graduate and have come across to a number of interesting cultural ceremonies. Apart from that, the splendid natural environment and the peace loving inhabitants who populate the entire areas are more than what you will be expecting of them.
Posted by: Alex Nava | 30 January 2018 at 03:49 PM