“Don’t worry, traditions in Simbu have changed. You can sit on it. Men and women no longer live in separate houses,” said Kaupa. “It all changed, sitting on a scraper is not a problem.”

Kaupa smiled and blinked his eyes at Nil-mama. She remembered Yaltom’s eye blinks and thought he may have inherited them from his uncle.

At the fire, Kaupa’s wife heated leftover food from last night’s dinner and shared it. Nil-mam told them she had to go to the hospital to see Dr Kenny. “Who is Dr Kenny?” Kaupa asked. “He is a medical doctor from Kavieng who is a good friend of my father,” said Nil-mam.

“OK, take Apane with you,” said Kaupa, referring to his eldest daughter. “Is she not going to school,” asked Nil-mam. “Don’t worry; she can accompany her aunt for a day. It doesn’t make a big difference in her learning. Most teachers are not in school on Fridays. If they are, they don’t teach properly and ask students to go home early.”

Apane was excited at her parents’ blessing to skip school. Kaupa wished them well for the day and went to ask for buai from the dumb betel nut seller. The entire valley could hear Kaupa and the dumb fellow getting into a one-sided discussion. Some young people were saying, “Kaupa, pay and chew, pay and chew. Don’t you feel sorry for him.”

All went quiet when Kaupa pulled a two kina note from his pocket and handed it to the seller.

“Chew a betel nut before you go?” Kaupa asked Nil-mam as she walked past with Apane. “Ok, tambu. You right man!” exclaimed Nil-mam as she took the buai from Kaupa. The dumb betel nut seller communicated using sign language and Kaupa’s response brought smile on his face.

He took two betel nuts and handed them to Nil-mam, signaling her to have them. Nil-mam was thankful and hugged the betel nut seller. His sign language indicated it was OK. Nil-mam should not take it seriously.

Nil-mam smiled and thought of a dumb man’s never say die spirit in selling betel nut to make a living.

His generosity, smile and striving to rise above language made him special. Generally throughout Papua New Guinea, people with special needs like him were ignored.

Nil-mam carried the kindness of this person in her mind as she walked into Kundiawa town and to the hospital.

It was still early in the morning as they walked into town. Apane pointed to the main market and the betel nut market and said, “Many people who walked past our house early in the morning are here. That man and his wife have been selling betel nut for a long time but do not own a house in town or in the village.

“Their children do not go to school and sometimes they help them sell betel nut”. “What do you think about that?” Nil-mam asked. “Parents are growing their children on the street to become betel nut sellers like them. That is not good,” Apane responded.

“What about missing class to be with me today? Don’t you feel bad about that?” Nil-mam asked.

Apane was quiet and felt irritated at Nil-mam for asking such a question. Nil-mam sensed her displeasure and asked her what she wanted to eat. “Pineapple,” said Apane and Nil-mam reached into her bag and gave her a ten kina note. Apane took the money and walked into the market. Nil-mam smiled to herself for making Apane forget about her question.

“These are juicy pineapples. Do these people grow them here,” asked Nil-mam. “No, most of these pineapples come from Jiwaka. The sellers travel there and buy them to sell here,” replied Apane.

“Hello!” Nil-mam greeted a black-uniformed guard at the gate. “Where can I find my uncle, Dr Kenny.”

“We have many medical doctors here so you will have to ask that person over there,” the guard said, pointing. Nil-mam thanked him and walked with Apane into the outpatients’ area. The hospital environment was pleasant and the people were friendly. It was the most orderly hospital in PNG that Nil-mam had seen.

She walked to a noticeboard and read a poster about the work of the Simbu Children Foundation and how they raised funds to help children in this hospital and other places in Simbu.

She recalled Yaltom’s stories about his involvement with the Foundation. “Many parents are lucky to have normal babies and don’t worry,” she thought,” but some people are not so lucky.”

This reminded her of her own pregnancy.  “Yaltom may have been thinking ahead and invested some time and money into the Foundation.” Her thought took her miles away.