The feathered flute: Lessons from the curl crested manucode
03 June 2015
An entry in the Crocodile Prize
PNG Chamber of Mines & Petroleum
Award for Essays & Journalism
TWELVE years after my village welcomed me into this world, I left home. It was the first time for me to leave home and the last time I was to spend entire years at a place I called home.
I had to cross the unforgiving waters to talk to a grey-haired old man named Edukesen. Dad travelled with me. And, after spending a few days in the provincial capital buying necessities and sorting out fees, we hit the sea.
The few of my valuables I took with me were rubber tubing for a slingshot and my guitar. Mum commented that I looked like I was going picnicking instead of leaving to meet my Edukesen.
The waves of Goschen Strait showed no remorse to our wooden craft. This stretch of water is a heart-in-mouth experience and it can be a graveyard. You don’t put every carat of your faith in the skipper, because he ain’t no saint either.
But Dad and I, sitting on the front deck, were not bothered. We talked about wave patterns and ocean currents, figurative language associated with the sea, signs to look out for when in the ocean. Boat-building ruled our conversation.
We described a patchy history: the London Missionary Society, Kwato boat-building and that visionary man, Reverend Charles Abel.
We talked of Suau, Logeia and Sariba Island uncles who trained at Kwato and in the Wakowakoko Slipways. We were reminded of Yuhisala, the Suau culture of ‘near-perfection’ and the kalampa, boys who developed the skill from working in the boatyards.
Then we turned to discussing individual designs as trademarks. Kwato designs, the famous Madati of Sanaroa Island and the Salamo SPAN slipways, Catholic Mission boat-builders on Sideia Island, MV Telita, MV Yelangili, the list was unstoppable.
We jumped to engine models; Yanmar, Suzuki, as if we were Japs. But our combined knowledge on marine engines was not as sharp as the Samurai sword. We talked for the love of the sea.
As we approached the north-western tip of Duau (Normanby Island), the sun bowed to us and tucked itself into the mountains of Wedau.
Whiterock Point was a one-stop point for Suau seafarers. The jungle trees seemed to be racing each other for who would be the first to touch the salt water. We anchored.
Students and some parents were ferried to the shore for a stretch. As a gesture of honour in a new area with unseen staring eyes, I cupped salt water into my hands and splashed it on my face.
Then a high pitched flute sound greeted us from the jungle. I asked dad what it was. His only answer was: ‘We don’t have that bird back in our forests.’ I believed him as he was my biology bush-teacher.
Dad had been this way before, ferrying uncles and my elder brother to the same school. So here I was, following those ‘wave prints’. I filed the bird song in a space I could later find in my memory.
We slipped into the Dobu passage. Nearing Gomwa Point, the smoke from Deidei stood tall and gave us a sulphide welcome. I kept silent for a long time, as dad would be leaving the following day.
Wesley High School was a place for a baptism in ‘self-reliance’. Rules are rules. One couldn’t bend them and I was no exception. I would appear on Saturdays’ disciplinary lists.
My interest to go-bush overshadowed my interest in classes. One Saturday morning on a term break, I left for the bush before the sun was up to check bandicoot traps I had set.
I carried a pole with rubber tubing tied to it over my shoulder, a machete in my left hand and few round stones in the back pocket of my shorts. As I crossed the airstrip, the flute sound echoed in my ears.
Eyes and feet collaborated. Above a tree, a pair of glossy black birds were singing, perhaps to greet the new day. I watched in awe, and they robbed my minutes.
One reared back before filling its lungs to call, and slowly lunged forward. As one called, the other flapped it wings and turned in all directions. Probably a ritual. ‘This was the bird that greeted me at the Whiterock Point,’ I thought.
My memory tempted me to file this species into a Torresian crow folder. Then, when their eyes caught me, they disappeared deep into the jungle. Their flight behaviour seemed to twist the tail plumage and burden them in flying. I was half-satisfied.
At the end of the academic year, I told dad what the bird was. I said it’s got a relative in my forest but the songs and flight behaviour vary.
Decades later, I revisited the file. I dusted the song and shoved the information into the worldwide web. There it was, a manucode. The curl-crested manucode (Manucodia comrii)belonging to the bird of paradise family.
This species is native to the D’Entrecasteaux Archipelago and the Trobriand Islands. Unlike their relatives, though, manucodes are monogamous. And both parents care for the young. They are also frugivorous, feeding on fruits and figs. Male and female look alike, or monomorphic, except the female is smaller.
A pair lives together till death doth them part. Their anatomy is also a fascination. In other birds, the windpipe leads straight to the lungs. With this species, the windpipe is longer and goes into the chest cavity and abdomen before bending back to the lungs, hence the movement they make when singing.
We call ourselves the intelligent species, yet this species teaches something that I believe is deficient in our societies.
If our societies lean towards monogamy, if we care for those we brought into this world, if we do not differentiate between our own kind, if we do show the respect that our opposite sex deserve…. imagine then what our Papua New Guinea will be.
Hi Daniel, he's on Facebook as well as his wife.
Posted by: Ron Kone | 04 June 2015 at 03:25 PM
Good to hear Abby is with his Governor. Regards to him and his family. Last time I saw him was at Two Mile Hill in his flat when he was with the Post-Courier. I still remember the good meal his wife prepared for us.
Posted by: Daniel Ipan Kumbon | 04 June 2015 at 08:35 AM
Ed, Daniel & Phil thanks for the comments. Much appreciated.
Daniel, Abby's currently the PR for Milne Bay Governor. I love that poem, probably an Ipatas Prophesy for investment in Engan HR development.
Posted by: Ron Kone | 03 June 2015 at 08:16 PM
Konetero, I mentioned Abby Yadi a moment ago. Here is a sample of what he wrote for us Engans in our 1986 Yearbook.
An Engan to stand by Abby Yady
Blood and heritage twined
An Engan to stand
Up against ridicule
From those among the ignorant
Up on the mountain tops
Down the valleys deep
And in the morning mist
‘Wapali Bui’ larments
A tortured image
At the hands of modernization
But those hardened warrior’s wars
Which are but my life
The image was upturned
Before this selfish world
Identity it was cried for
Identity thus was gained
Like the early morning bird call
That announces the break of dawn
Should ‘Wapili Bui’ emerge.
Enga let them see
The real Enga
A new dawn after darkness
To be Engan by blood
Is ever to be proud
Yadi was a true nationalist - a true PNGean who could mix easily with other cultural groups at UPNG.
Posted by: Daniel Ipan Kumbon | 03 June 2015 at 10:20 AM
Wonderful story nicely woven.
Reminds me of why I read PNG Attitude.
Posted by: Phil Fitzpatrick | 03 June 2015 at 09:24 AM
Well structured story. You have the ability to weave the past with the present drawing lessons from nature. I had a friend from those parts - Abby Yadi who wrote good poetry for our UPNG Enga Students Association Yearbooks in the mid eighties. Wonder where he is now.
Posted by: Daniel Ipan Kumbon | 03 June 2015 at 08:45 AM
A beautiful parable, beautifully written. Thank you for making my day ...
Posted by: Ed Brumby | 03 June 2015 at 07:48 AM