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The writers: Daniel Kumbon – master of the art of travel writing

Daniel Kumbon 2PHIL FITZPATRICK

THE Tourism, Arts and Culture award was a new category in the Crocodile Prize national literary competition in 2015, its inclusion coming after an offer by the Tourism Minister at the 2014 awards.

The award was intended to highlight writing related to travel and tourism.

Travel writing is a real art and some of the great travel writers became legends in their own right. What they do is present their subject in an entertaining, reflective and informative narrative.

An essential part of such writing is the 'back story’, linking the writer’s own experience to the travel narrative in a coherent and readable way that piques the reader’s curiosity. If not done well, the travel piece can read just like an advertisement.

For Daniel Kumbon the award came tailor made. He is a journalist who has travelled widely throughout the world and written about it all his working life.

Daniel mastered travel writing superbly and his experience showed up in his winning entry, which stood out from the more pedestrian entries in this category.

___________

View from YaskomFrom the German doctor’s idea a great project is born

DANIEL KUMBON

“YOU have good mountains, beautiful scenery, good weather and many attractions which would pull people here but what you lack is a guesthouse.”

The scene: Sirunki, Laiagam District, Enga Province. The speaker: a lone German traveller. The listener: Yasowa Kome, local councillor. The year: 1990.

This conversation with his guest prompted Kome to start a guest house even though Sirunki was a ‘no-go zone’ at the time due to tribal warfare and constant armed hold-ups at Aipanda, on the border of Laiagam and Wabag.

Despite these problems, Kome converted his two-bedroom family home into a guest house. After developing it to lodging facility standard, he named it Yaskom Resort Hotel.

The hotel is now a major tourist destination in the province and the venue for official receptions, seminars, workshops and social gatherings. Prime Minister Peter O’Neill prefers to stay there on official engagements in the province. And it’s where the PNG Rugby League board conducted its annual general meeting.

More recently, in March, Australian High Commissioner Deborah Stokes launched the PNG Alumni Association there.

But for 10 years not a single tourist went to the hotel. Kome nearly gave up after developing the property, which had taken his every last penny. I’ll let him take up the story:

“One day in 1990, a German tourist, a medical doctor, came to Sirunki unexpectedly. He took pictures of the lake and admired the beautiful scenery and cool climate. In the afternoon he searched for a place to spend the night.

“But he was an expatriate and we had reservations about inviting him to sleep in our village-style houses with pigs roaming around. You know, it was not conducive for him, one so used to modern comforts.

“I am a mechanic and I had a small two-bedroom permanent house. I offered him one of the rooms where he stayed for a whole week.

“One morning he mentioned the good mountains, beautiful scenery, good weather and many attractions which would pull people here but added, ‘what you lack is a guest house. On my way here from Wabag, I saw no guest house along the way.’”

“I told him we don’t have a guest houses at Sirunki, Laiagam, Porgera, Kandep or anywhere else in these western parts because no tourist ever comes here. But to demonstrate what the people could offer, I asked people of Tukusanda village to stage a singsing especially for my German friend. He took many pictures and went back to Germany.

“The good doctor implanted a seed in me to start a guest house. So I renovated my two-bedroom family home into a guest house and developed it. I spent all my money hoping another visitor would come along. But none came for almost 10 years. I panicked and nearly gave up hope.”

But there was still hope for Yasowa Kome. Governor Peter Ipatas won the 1997 national elections and immediately formulated a policy to promote tourism and economic activity in the province. People were encouraged to establish guest houses.

Kome felt reluctant to approach the governor because he had not supported him during the elections. But he was desperate to get a licence so he wrote a letter. Ipatas didn’t respond. Three years later, after a third attempt, Ipatas asked him to see him at Irelya village.

After some scolding, Ipatas granted the coveted licence. This was followed by a grant of K100000 from the provincial government. Kome accepted the gesture as a blessing and continued to improve his property.

“I saw the governor in March 2000, and up till now the evidence of the blessing he bestowed on me is the result you can see today – this hotel, a result of Ipatas’s vision to see more tourists come to this province,” Kome said.

The hotel was officially opened by Moses Maladina, then Minister for Rural Development and Implementation, on 12 August 2011.

Kome was left speechless when Maladina presented him with a surprise gift of K200000. At last his perseverance to change the perception of a forlorn area torn apart by tribal warfare and transform it to a safe destination for visitors had been recognised by the national government.

The Minister also presented K200,000 to the Enga Tradition and Transition Centre and K50000 to the annual Enga Cultural Show staged that same weekend in Wabag town.

The following year, the then member of parliament Philip Kikala launched the Lagaip-Porgera five year district development plan. One of its aims was to boost tourism activity in his district and stage the first ever West Enga Cultural Show in Laiagam, a 10-15 minute drive from the new hotel.

Canadian Rev Herb Sachn, a former missionary, was the first visitor after the hotel was officially opened and he was soon followed by eight American tourists. Then the floodgates opened to an influx of visitors.

Every year during Australian rugby league State of Origin matches, footie-mad folks flock to Yaskom Resort Hotel to watch their favourite game on the big screen in the public forum area or book into one of the cosy rooms to enjoy the game in privacy.

These days the hotel features 22 self-contained rooms with electric heaters and hot water, two car parks, five standard rooms, a public bar, a spacious and fully kitted dining room, conference facilities that can accommodate 100 people and TV sets in all self-contained rooms.

It is a shining example of how one man can transform a forlorn area torn apart by tribal war into something that not only brings in a regular income but peace and harmony among his people.

It is where total strangers can enjoy the natural beauty and culture of the people like the German doctor did 25 years ago.

Comments

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John Gordon-Kirkby

I have known Daniel since 1975. He was then a young boarding student at high school who was home in his remote village on holidays.

I was a kiap on a pre PNG Independence educational patrol. The village elders introduced us because he spoke English rather than Pidgin.

I encouraged him to write, not then realising his potential to become one of PNG’s most prolific and insightful commentators on his beautiful and colourful homeland.

He has proved able to cover his rich cultural heritage with objective political commentary.

Our friendship endures.

John K Kamasua

Great read! Inspiring

Daniel Kumbon

Thanks Phil for the story. Thanks Robin for the comment.

This piece and many more of my travel stories including this one are in my book 'I can see my country clearly now.' Yasowa Kome still keeps on expanding the property.

Yasowa Kome's picture is the last one at the bottom right hand corner at the back cover of the book. The only outlet in PNG to see the book is at the UPNG Bookshop in Port Moesby.

Some copies are also sold by a friend and former school mate, Paul Penian in front of the Boroko Post Office.

Paul Penian nearly broke his neck when he slid down a coconut tree at what looked like 100 miles an hour when he tried to escape from bits from thousands of red ants at the top of the tree when he was trying to harvest the nuts.

I wrote about our student day adventures in my first ever book 'Climbing Mountains' a supplementary reader for primary schools. It was published by Oxford University Press.

`Robin Lillicrapp

An inspirational highlight amid surrounding circumstance.

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