Mr Philp is welcomed by traditional Oro dancers as he arrives at Force Support Battalion

This is a story of two best friends who met under the shady rain trees that surround Force Support Battalion inside Murray Barracks, Port Moresby.

It was a warm Tuesday afternoon and the sun was crawling towards where its last glow disappears behind nearby Brigadier Hill.

But the heat still lurked everywhere, including under the rain trees’ shade.

Murray Barracks was marred by strict Covid-19 protocols and the quiet was disturbed only by the sound of traffic along Two Mile Way.

At around 2:45pm the two best friends arrived.

Neither spoke much and both seemed to revere each other’s silence for they have been friends for many years.

History says their forefathers spilled blood together in our land of high mountains, swaying palms and coral seas.

Even the winds sweeping across the rugged interior of the Owen Stanley Range bears their songs of love and friendship.

Songs about the strange ‘black angels with frizzy hair’ who appeared from nowhere in the thick jungles of Kokoda.

Mr Philp and Maj-Gen Gilbert Toropo arrive at St Paul’s Chapel

Sapper Bert Beros of the 7th Division, Royal Australian Army Engineers (1939-45), hummed one of them at four o’clock one morning while on guard along the track.

“…Slow and careful in the bad places
on the awful mountain track
The look upon their faces
would make you think Christ was black…”

Wars create heroes and this war created heroes who bonded for decades as best friends, genuine partners, family.

A friendship forged in battle and etched with the spilled blood gore of fallen forefathers.

Though these two friends were to meet for only an hour, both ignored the running sheet, and they stayed a little bit longer.

The streams of sunlight through the tree tops caught their faces and the many challenges and successes over the years glistened in their smiles.

Overgrown branches swayed as a cool afternoon wind sprang up from the direction of Taurama valley.

Mr Philp and Maj-Gen Toropo hold the ribbon at St Pauls Chapel

Australia, Papua New Guinea and their two defence forces embrace a history and friendship founded upon truth and shared experiences. 

Many PNG Defence Force units trace their origins to Papuan and New Guinea units formed as part of the Australian Army and Royal Australian Navy during and after World War II.

The Australian High Commissioner, His Excellency Jon Philp, spoke of how this relationship between the two nations has continued to grow significantly in recent years.

Mr Philp said the Australian Defence Force and PNGDF are bonded and working in partnership under a Defence Cooperation Program in an enriched relationship woven with true comradeship.

A defence cooperation arrangement had been signed between Australia and PNG in May 2013. It expresses both nations’ desire to deepen practical cooperation and initiatives.

The PNGDF chief Major General Gilbert Toropo shared the same sentiments, saying the two forces are working together to achieve an increasingly professional, capable and sustainable PNGDF.

Mr Philp and Maj-Gen Toropo hold the ribbon at St Paul's Chapel

By now it was getting late, the wind was turning gusty and it was time for the ceremonial opening of God’s own house, St Paul’s Chapel, in the heart of PNGDF headquarters, and a 100-man living facility at Force Support Battalion.

As Mr Philp and Maj-Gen Toropo officially opened the two state-of-the-art facilities replete with modern technology, three loud hoorays burst from the midst of the assembled soldiers and echoed across the barracks precinct.

The buildings cut a stylish line in the world of architectural design. You enter the doors into masterly planned and crafted interiors.

A construction derived from the fortress of two nations’ friendship.

This was not only about cutting ribbons. It was about comradeship and collaboration.

Maj-Gen Toropo speaks in front of St Pauls Chapel as Mr Philp looks on

When putting together this story, I came across few words by former New Zealand Governor-General, Dame Silvia Rose Cartwright, who said:

“There is no glory in war, yet from the blackness of its history, there emerge vivid colours of human character and courage. Those who gave their lives to save others.”

The two good friends left the barracks just before 5pm, the silence returned, the wind dropped to a breeze and the not unpleasant metallic scent of the new buildings lingered for a while.

All images by Alexander Nara